Drive north from La Limonaia for a day of stone villages, mountain views and good local food. This route gives you three memorable stops without asking you to rush.
Start at the Devil’s Bridge. Spend the late morning and lunch in Barga. Then continue to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana before driving home through the Serchio Valley.
Time needed
One full day
Main stops
3 places
Driving
About 2½ hours
From the house
Car needed
The simple route
Leave after breakfast and follow the valley north
9:15Devil’s BridgeWalk over the bridge and see its arches from the riverbank.
10:30BargaClimb through the old town to the cathedral, then stay for lunch.
14:30CastelnuovoSee the fortress, the main square and the streets around the cathedral.
17:00Drive homeReturn along the Serchio, with time for an evening by the pool.
The bridge’s uneven arches make its outline instantly recognisable.
First stop, about 45 minutes
Ponte della Maddalena
Everyone calls it the Devil’s Bridge. One tall arch rises sharply over the Serchio, while smaller arches step down beside it. Walk to the top for the view, then look back from the riverbank to see its full shape.
Tradition links the first bridge here to Matilda of Canossa. Later rulers repaired and changed it. The local legend is more colourful. It says the builder promised the devil the soul of the first living thing to cross. The villagers tricked him by sending an animal over first.
Go early. The bridge is most peaceful before the day gets busy. The steep stone surface can be slippery after rain.
Barga sits on a ridge with the Apuan Alps behind it.
Late morning and lunch, 2 to 3 hours
Barga
Barga is the place to slow down. Enter the old town through Porta Reale. Its lanes climb past stone houses, small squares and old shopfronts. Keep going uphill until you reach the Cathedral of San Cristoforo.
The cathedral square has the best view. On a clear day, the Apuan Alps fill the horizon. The church is simple and strong outside. Inside, look for the carved marble pulpit and the dark wooden statue of Saint Christopher.
A good short walk
Enter through Porta Reale and follow Via di Mezzo
Climb to the cathedral and walk around its terrace
The Rocca Ariostesca guards the entrance to Castelnuovo’s main square.
Afternoon, about 90 minutes
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana
Castelnuovo is the small capital of the Garfagnana. The Rocca Ariostesca stands over the main square. The fortress is named after the poet Ludovico Ariosto, who governed the Este family’s lands here from 1522 to 1525.
Walk through the fortress gate and explore the streets behind it. The cathedral of Santi Pietro e Paolo is close by. Continue towards the old stone bridge for a quieter view of the town and the wooded hills.
Do not try to see everything
Castelnuovo works best as a gentle final stop. Have a coffee, see the centre and leave time for the drive home. The deeper mountains deserve another day.
Wear good shoesThe bridge is steep and Barga’s old streets climb steadily.Take a light layerThe mountains can be cooler than Lucca, even on a warm day.Park outside the old townsBarga and Castelnuovo are easiest to explore on foot.Check before you goChurches, museums and caves can have seasonal opening times.
Sources and image credits
We used official pages from Visit Tuscany for the route and place information. Opening times can change, so check the linked pages before leaving.
